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Company of
    Bobanero Brew


Comparing and Selecting Hops  For other Beers Chart




10. Wine can be consumed at this point, but will benefit with aging of 6 months to one year.

Name Alpha Acid % Possible Substitutions Flavor Description
Ahtanum™ 4-6.3% Amarillo, Cascade Floral, citrus, sharp, and piney.
Amarillo® 8-9% Cascade, Centennial Citrusy, flowery.
Apollo 15-19% Zeus A high alpha acid varietal known for its disease resistance.
Boadicea (U.K.) 8-9% spicy
Bravo 14-17% Apollo, Zeus
Cascade (U.S.) 4.5-7% Amarillo, Centennial, possibly Columbus Pleasant, flowery, spicy, and citrusy. Can have a grapefruit flavor.
Cascade (New Zealand) 6-8% Ahtanum, Cascade, Centennial Similar to US Cascade, has floral, citrus grapefruit character.
Centennial 8-11.5% Cascade, possibly Columbus Medium with floral and citrus tones.
Chinook 10-14% Columbus, Northern Brewer, Nugget, U.K. Target Mild to medium-heavy, spicy, piney, and grapefruity.
Citra® (U.S.) 11-13% Intense citrusy flavor.
Cluster 5.5-8.5% Galena Medium and quite spicy.
Columbus 11-16% Chinook, Northern Brewer, Nugget, U.K. Target Pleasant, with pungent aroma.
El Dorado (U.S.) 14-16% Dual purpose hop with fruity, tropical flavors.
Galaxy® (Australia) 11-16% When used as a late addition or dry hopped, it contributes a pungent flavor of passionfruit and citrus.
Galena 10-14% Chinook, Nugget, Pride of Ringwood Medium but pleasant hoppiness, citrusy.
Glacier (U.S.) 5-9% Styrian Golding, U.S. Fuggle, U.S. Tettnanger, Willamette Dual purpose hop with a citrus earthy aroma.
Horizon 11-14% Magnum Spicy, floral. Low co-humulone results in clean tasting beer.
Kohatu (New Zealand) 3% Aroma hop with high essential oils and intense floral characters of pine needles and tropical fruit.
Legacy (U.S.) NA Clean grapefruit, floral, black currant notes and a spicy aroma.
Magnum (German) 12-16% Northdown, Northern Brewer Known for bittering value and quality.
Magnum (U.S.) 10-14% Northdown, Northern Brewer High alpha variety
Nelson Sauvin (New Zealand) 12-14% Distinctive white wine "fruitiness," gooseberry. Considered by some as "extreme," this hop is often used in specialty craft and seasonal beers.
Newport 13-17% Galena, Nugget Fairly pungent.
Northern Brewer (German) 7-10% Chinook, U.S. Northern Brewer Medium-strong with some wild tones.
Northern Brewer (U.S.) 6-10% Chinook, Nugget Medium-strong with some wild tones.
Northwest Golding 4-5% Known for aromatic properties.
Nugget 11-14.5% Chinook, Columbus, Galena, U.K. Target Quite heavy and herbal.
Olympic 11-13% Chinook Mild to medium, citrusy aroma, spicy.
Opal (German) 5-8% Styrian Golding German dual-purpose hop
Orbit (New Zealand) NA Orbit is different each year as it uses a proprietary blend of hops specially selected out of the New Zealand “Hops with a Difference” breeding program.
Pacific Gem (New Zealand) 13-15% Galena Bittering hop with delicate blackberry and floral oak. Pleasant aroma and high bitterness level.
Pacific Jade (New Zealand) 12-14% A "soft" bittering hop with spicy and citrus aroma qualities.
Palisade® 5.5-9.5% Perhaps Cascade Some "American" characteristics.
Perle (German) 6-8.5% Northern Brewer, U.S. Perle Moderately intense, good and hoppy, fruity and a little spicy.
Perle (U.S.) 6-9.5% Chinook, Cluster, Galena, Northern Brewer Known for its aromatic and bittering properties, pleasant and slightly spicy.
Pilgrim (U.K.) 9-13% U.K. Challenger, U.K. Target Dual purpose hop with citrusy, fruity, spicy, and lemon aromas.
Pride of Ringwood (Australia) 7-10% Cluster, Galena Quite pronounced, woody, earthy, herbal.
Riwaka (New Zealand) 4.5-6.5% Czech Saaz, possible American "C" hops Citrusy, grapefruit aroma hop
Santiam 5-7.9% German Spalt, German Spalt Select, German Tettnanger Noble characteristics.
Satus 12.5-14% Galena Known for its bittering and aromatic properties.
Simcoe® 12-14% A bittering and aromatic hop.
Sorachi Ace (Japan) 13-16% Bittering hop with lemony aroma
Sovereign (U.K.) 5-6% U.K. Fuggle mild flavor
Styrian Aurora 7-9.5% Northern Brewer, Styrian Golding, U.S. Styrian Bobek Intense, pleasant and hoppy. Very suitable for extraction and for combination with other varieties in the brewing process.
Summer (Australia) 5.6-6.4% A hop variety formerly known as Summer Saaz that has a gentle floral aroma, slightly earthy. Expect apricot and stone fruit notes
when used in dry hopping.
Summit™ 16-18% Simcoe Ultra high-alpha bittering hop
Sun 12-16% Magnum High-alpha hop with intense character
Super Alpha (New Zealand) 10-12% Earthy, piney bittering hop.
Super Pride (Australia) 14% Pride of Ringwood A high alpha variety bred from Pride of Ringwood.
Target (U.K.) 9.5-12.5% Fuggle, Willamette Pleasant English hop aroma, quite intense.
Tomahawk® 15-17% Columbus Primarily a bittering hop.
Topaz (Australia) 13.7-17.7% A dual purpose hop, Topaz adds a resinous, grassy flavors; however, with later additions and in higher gravity brews, light tropical fruit flavors (some say lychee) become more pronounced.
Vic Secret (Australia) 14-17% An aroma hop with resinous, grassy and mild fruit flavors. Late and dry hop additions introduce appealing clean and distinct pineapple and pine characters. Lighter and less dominant than Galaxy.
Wai-iti (New Zealand) 3.4% Saaz Aroma hop with a startlingly citrus aroma made up of mandarin, lemon and lime zest
Waimea (New Zealand) 16-19% High alpha but also lots of oils giving fresh tangelo and citrus fruit aroma with pine needles
Warrior® 15-17% Nugget A bittering and aromatic hop.
Willamette 3.5-6% Styrian Golding, U.S. Fuggle, U.S. Tettnanger Mild and pleasant, slightly spicy, fruity, floral, a little earthy.
Yakima Cluster 6-8.5% Used as a kettle hop for bittering.
Zeus 13-17% Columbus Aromatic and pleasant.





Buba Gump 

Dublin XXX Stout

Author:  BYO Staff Issue: Mar/Apr 2008

1879 Dublin XXX Stout
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.086 FG = 1.015
IBU = 87 SRM = 55 ABV = 9.1%

A large stout, what today would be called a foreign extra stout, was made in Dublin in 1879. Most assuredly, there would also be a little sourness brought on by Brettanomyces, giving this beer a finishing acidic twang.


10.25 lbs. (4.7 kg) British 2-row pale malt (2-row)
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) roasted barley
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) corn sugar
10 AAU Fuggle hops (120 mins)(2.0 oz./57 g of 5% alpha acids)
10 AAU Fuggle hops (60 mins) (2.0 oz./57 g of 5% alpha acids)
2.0 oz. (57 g) Fuggle hops (10 mins)
Fermentis Safale S-04 yeast

Step by Step

Mash grains at 154 °F (68 °C) in 11.5 qts. (11 L) of water. Boil for 120 minutes, adding hops at times indicated and sugar for final 15 minutes. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). As an option, you can add a Brettanomyces culture once the primary fermentation slows.

Countertop partial mash option:
Reduce amount of British pale malt to 3.0 lbs. (4.7 kg) and add 2.0 lbs (0.91 kg) of Muntons Light dried malt extract and 2.75 lbs. (1.3 kg) of John Bull light liquid malt extract (late addition).

Begin by heating 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of soft or distilled water to 165 °F (74 °C) in a large kitchen pot. Stir 1⁄2 tsp. of calcium sulfate (gypsum) or calcium chloride into this water. In another pot, heat 2.25 qts. (2.1 L) of soft water to around 164 °F (73 °C). Stir 1 tsp. calcium carbonate (chalk) or 1⁄2 tsp. sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) into this water. In your brewpot, begin heating a half-gallon (~2 L) of water to around 170 °F (77 °C). Place crushed pale and crystal malts in one grain bag and place in cooler. Put remaining roasted barley (crushed) in the other bag. Add the 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of water to the malts in the cooler and stir it in. Let this mash, starting at 154 °F (68 °C), for 45 minutes. Likewise, steep the specialty grains in the pot of carbonate-rich water for 45 minutes (around 153 °F/67 °C), although this exact temperature is not critical. While grains mash and steep, heat about 8.0 qts. (7.6 L) of water to 180 °F (82 °C).

When mashing and steeping is complete, scoop 1 qt. (~1 L) of 170 °F (77 °C) water from your brewpot with a large measuring cup or beer pitcher. Lift the specialty grains out of their steeping pot and place them in a colander over your brewpot. Pour the "grain tea" through the grain bag (to strain out any large bits of grain) and then rinse the grains with the water pulled from your brewpot. Start heating this "grain tea" while you collect the wort from the cooler.

To collect wort from mash, recirculate about 2.5 qts. (2.4 L) of wort, then add 180 °F (82 °C) water to cooler until it is full to the rim. Draw off wort and add to brewpot until the liquid level in the cooler is just above the grain bed. Add 180 °F (82 °C) water to the rim again. Repeat this process until you have collected 2.0 gallons/8 qts. (7.6 L) of wort. Add dried malt extract and bring wort to a boil. Add first dose of hops and boil for 60 minutes.

Add hops at times indicated in the ingredient list. Stir in sugar and liquid malt extract for the final 15 minutes of the boil. Cool wort, in sink or with wort chiller, to 70 °F (21 °C) and transfer to fermenter. Add water to top up to 5 gallons (19 L), aerate and pitch yeast. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). As an option, you can add a Brettanomyces culture once the primary fermentation slows to a halt.

  Full of Pure Cherry Juice  and 6 Habaneros
  Added to the  Dark Cherry Stout  Beer above

  When are hops added during the brewing process?
Hops are typically added to wort in 1-3 stages during the boil: bittering, flavor and
aroma. These stages have to do with what role they are playing in your beer, and are
not associated with a specific type of hop. In other words, the same hop variety might
be used for bittering, flavor and aroma. Not all beers will have 3 additions; some may
have only one, some may have up to 5 or 6 additions. All beers do have at least one
hop addition for bitterness, to balance the sweetness of the malt.
There are no specific types of hops for specific addition times. Meaning Cascade can be used
as bittering, flavoring, or aroma hops. It is not uncommon that your bittering and aroma
hops are the same. When you have a
kit that comes with 2 oz. of Cascade hops and wonder which one if for bitter, and which one is for aroma, they are
the same. 1 oz. gets added at the beginning of the boil, while the other ounce gets added right at the end of the boil.
You want to add hops at different times to give your beer more complexity. If you just added bittering hops, the
beer would be fine, but would be missing something. By adding the aroma hops, you are adding another dimension
to your beer. If you used only aroma hops, your beer would be lacking bitterness. Not enough alpha acids from the
hops would be isomerized in your boil.
Most recipes will tell you when to add your hops either in time from the start of the boil, or time that is left in the
boil. For example, you might have a beer that is supposed to boil for a total of 60 minutes. The directions might tell
you to add the bittering hops 30 minutes into or 30 minutes left of the boil. Make sure you pay attention to how
the recipe is written because it can make a large difference on how bitter the beer turns out. Click here for more
information on the different types of hops.
Stage 1: Bittering
Bittering hops are added once the wort has been collected in the kettle (or after you’ve added the malt extract) and
a rolling boil has been achieved. They are usually boiled for 60 minutes, although some recipes call for as little as 30
minutes. All beers have some bittering hops. The main reason for this is that without the bitterness from the hops,
your beer would taste syrupy-sweet. Another benefit is that hops are a natural preservative and will help your beer
to keep for a longer time or for extended aging periods.
Stage 2: Flavoring
Flavoring hops are generally added with between 15 and 30 minutes remaining in the boil. In this time frame, very
little of the bitterness will be extracted from the hops, but that crisp hoppy flavor will be imparted. Again, these may
be the same as your bittering or aroma hops, it is the time that they are boiled that makes the difference.
Stage 3: Aroma
Hop oils that are responsible for aroma are extremely volatile and will be driven off in the steam of your boil almost
immediately. Therefore, aroma hops must not be boiled for long. They are typically added during the last 5 minutes
of the boil, or at flame out (when the kettle is removed from the heat). Adding hops at flame out will produce the
maximum amount of aroma. Click here for information on dry hopping.

Dry hopping is the process of adding hops, usually in secondary, to a beer to add more of a hop aroma to your beer.


Traditionally the technique is used for beer styles like pale ales and I.P.A.’s, but people are doing this process in many other styles as well. You aren’t extracting any of the oils from the hops because you would need to add heat to do that, but you are adding aroma. Being that almost 75% of human taste comes from smell, then you can see why people take this extra step with their beers. If you are a big hop fan, dry hopping is a must.

Dry hopping methods vary, so find which way gives you the best results:

  • We prefer to add the dry hops with 3-5 days left before you plan on bottling, or kegging, the beer. The reason for this is because the idea is to have the hop aroma infuse with the beer without having the aroma fade. By adding the hops only a few days before bottling, you get the freshest hop aroma throughout your beer without much loss of taste.
  • Another method is to add the hops to the secondary 2 weeks prior to bottling. This allows the hops enough time to blend with the beer well. We tend to feel that you lose some of the hop aroma with this much time, but you do get a better blend.

Hop Backs

  • For those that are extreme about your hops, then a hop back might be the item for you. In most cases this is a house filter that has been modified to allow the addition of hops in the unit. A standard filter takes up too much space to add hops, so some modification is necessary. We are in the process of developing a hop back for the homebrewer, so check out our site to see when it is completed. How a hop back works is you attach the unit between the liquid lines on your keg set up. Hop backs only work with kegging systems. The beer flows into the filter unit with the fresh hops, and then continues on to your tap. This is the ultimate way to get the freshest infusion of hops into your beer.
    We will warn you; sometimes the effects of a hop back can be pretty strong, so watch out.

What type of hops are the best for dry hopping?

Most of us prefer the use of leaf hops, as they are easier to deal with when you transfer, but pellet hops will work as well. As far as the type of hops itself, that is up to you. Most brewers will use the same type of hops that they used in making the beer. You might want to buy an extra ounce, or two, of either the aroma or bittering hops that you used to make the beer.

Be careful of the quantity of hops that you use because you can easily overpower a beer by using too much. Usually, an ounce or two is all you need. Start with one ounce, and then see if you need to add more the next time.

How do I add the hops to a carboy?

Most of us are going to use a funnel and pour them right into our secondary. You cannot use a hop bag as the hops are going to absorb liquid while in the carboy and expand. It is very difficult to get the bag back out of your carboy when the hops are all swollen from liquid.

If you don’t want to deal with the mess of adding hops directly to your carboy then we do have a product that will work well for you. The Brew Infuser is a great product to use when dry hopping because it fits down the neck of the carboy easily and you can remove it easily. We would recommend using pellet hops with this unit because you can get more hops into that way, but leaf hops will work as well.

Give dry hopping a try as you will love the results. It isn’t hard, it doesn’t take that much time, and you get that little something extra in you beer that might have been missing before.


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