8 8 8 8 8 8 8

Company of
    Bobanero Brew




10.The wine can be bottled when it is clear and stable.

Blackberry Fruit Wine Base

Evergreen variety of blackberry, the most common grown in the Pacific Northwest.  Makes 5 gallons. 

    5-Gallon Recipe:

  •    One 96 oz can of Blackberry Fruit Base
  •    6 cans warm water (4.5 gallons)
  •   14 lbs. corn sugar or 12 lbs. white table sugar
  •   6 tsp. acid blend
        I have a couple of people that have told me to add the acid blend when you transfer to the secondary, and NOT when you first mix it up in the primary. Others have told me
      that they add their acid   blend in the primary. What is right? I added it when I transfered to my secondary (not to self -
    add it when it's still in the bucket and NOT in a carboy)
  •   4 tsp yeast nutrient
  •   2.5 tsp pectic enzyme
  •   5 tsp potassium bisulfite solution
  • 1 pkg Red Star Premiere Cuvee wine yeast, or Cote des Blanc wine yeast for a sweeter wine
  • 2.5 tsp potassium sorbate to stabilize



1. Sanitize all equipment and utinsils with bisulfite solution (5 tsp potassium bisulfite in 1 cup water).


2. Put fruit into straining bag, tie bag and add to fermenter.


3. Add all ingredients EXCEPT for the last TWO.


    Stir well to dissolve sugar. Starting Gravity should be about 1.085-1.090.


4. Cover and let sit overnight to allow SO2 to be released.


5. Sprinkle yeast on top of juice (must). Temperture should be 70-80 deg. F.


6. The next day, stir top half of must. Repeat daily until specific gravity lowers to 1.040 (4 or 5 days).


7. When gravity reads 1.040 remove bag of fruit. Press and strain juice from pulp and discard the pulp.


     Siphon must into secondary vessel, like a carboy. top up with water to minimize airspace and attach airlock.


8. Siphon wine again in 3-4 weeks when gravity reads 1.010 to 1.000. Add 1 tsp bisulfite solution per gallon of must.


9. After wine is clear (2-3 months) stabilize to prevent renewed fermentation and sweeten with wine conditioner to taste if too dry.


10. Wine can be consumed at this point, but will benefit with aging of 6 months to one year.





Kitchen in the Brewers Cave *This is where   Dianne & I
 Do  Quality Time Togeather 





Yeast needs air to successfully multiply into a larger colony. By using an air-lock, the air is being kept away from the yeast. For this reason,

  we recommend that you do not use an air-lock during the primary fermentation  .

 Instead, take the lid off and cover the fermenter with a thin cloth towel or something similar.

If you are concerned about leaving a fermentation exposed to the elements, rest assured that as long as you have an active fermentation

starting up as scheduled, your wine must will be safe from any airborne contaminants. The positive flow of CO2 gas from the fermentation will help protect against this.

- See more at:
We put in extra yeast in the wine. How. do we get rid of the yeasty taste? - See more at:

putting in extra yeast would not have anything to do with a yeast taste in the wine.

Whether you but in one or two or even three packets of wine yeast,

it will multiply to 100 to 200 times what you put in. This is assuming you used an actual wine yeast.

To answer your question, the best way to get it out is to add bentonite to the wine.

It will collect yeast and other protein particles and drop them to the bottom of your fermenter: - See more at:

The Many Uses Of Sodium Bisulfite

By Ed Kraus

Sodium Bisulfite is a very valuable and versatile product that plays several key roles throughout the wine making process.

 It is used, almost without exception, in all commercially made wines.

Among its many uses are: purifying fresh juices before the fermentation begins;

 using it in heavier doses with water for sanitizing bottles and equipment as needed;

and, adding it to your wine at bottling time to reduce some of the negative effects of storage such as oxidation and deterioration of flavor.

What Is Sodium Bisulfite?

For the sake of keeping this article in layman terms, Sodium Bisulfite is essentially very fine crystallized sodium granules that release sulfur gas when it is dissolved in a liquid. This sulfur gas permeates the liquid it was added to and then eventually dissipates into the air over the coarse of several hours.

The sulfur gases that are released from the Sodium Bisulfite act as a sanitizer, killing wild molds, bacteria, germs and other unwanted little nasties. The sulfur gases also help to preserve the wine by displacing any air that may be saturated in the wine. The sulfur gas is not so strong as to smell up the whole house, but its odor is noticeable when standing next to a liquid that has been treated.

It is important to note here that Sodium Bisulfite is also the active ingredient found in Campden Tablets. Each Campden Tablet equals 1/16 of a teaspoon of Sodium Bisulfite, or to put it another way, it takes 16 Campden Tablets to equal one teaspoon of Sodium Bisulfite.
So, when we talk about Sodium Bisulfite you can think of it as being interchangeable with Campden Tablets. 

Sodium Bisulfite is also interchangeable with Potassium Bisulfite. It comes in the same crystallized form as Sodium Bisulfite, and the dosage is measured the same.

The main difference is the active sulfur is stabilized in potassium instead of sodium. 

Sanitizing Fresh Juices With Sodium Bisulfite

You can add Sodium Bisulfite in lighter doses directly to any fresh wine making juices before fermentation to sanitize them.

 These fresh squeezed juices can contain a whole host of contaminating organisms, along with the natural yeast.

These micro-organisms, if allowed to grow, pose a threat to your wine by way of spoilage.

Normally, the yeast that comes naturally in the juice is able to handle the situation on its own by overtaking the juice and destroying any possibility of having a contaminating growth. But, this does not always happen.

If the yeast is not put in a healthy situation for what ever reason, or the amount of yeast being naturally provided is not enough, then it can not take over the juice as normal. This in turn gives opportunity to any micro-organisms that may exist to multiply and eventually spoil the juice.

By adding a light dose of Sodium Bisulfite in the very beginning --1/16 teaspoon per gallon--you are then essentially destroying all of the organisms in the fresh juice, including the natural yeast. You are starting with a clean slate--so to speak. Over a 24 hour period the sulfur gases dissipate into the air after which time you can add a fresh package of domesticated wine yeast of your choice.

IT IS IMPORTANT that you wait 24 hours before adding the yeast. And, that during the 24 hour period you leave the juice open to air so that the sulfur gases do not remain trapped in the juice, but rather, dissipate into the air. If this is not done the sulfur gas in the juice will destroy the newly added yeast.

As a side note, if you are making wine with packaged juices then a Sodium Bisulfite treatment is not required. It is only fresh juices that require this treatment for a sound fermentation.

Sanitizing Equipment With Sodium Bisulfite

Sodium Bisulfite is also useful in stronger doses with water for sanitizing your equipment. The recommended dose is 1 teaspoon of Sodium Bisulfite per gallon of water.

View Acid Blends

It is also recommended that either Citric Acid, Tartaric Acid or Acid Blend be added to the solution at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. This is not necessary, but if used these acids will increase the potency of the Sodium Bisulfite solution by causing the sulfur gases to release more rapidly.

When using this solution to sanitize items such as fermentation vessels or wine bottles it is not necessary to fill the container completely full. This is because the fumes off of the solution are what do the sterilizing.

For example, only 1 or 2 inches of the solution is required in the bottom of each wine bottle. And, in a typical 5 gallon glass carboy 3 or 4 inches is sufficient.

If you have other pieces of home wine making equipment to sanitize such as stirring spoons or siphoning hoses, you can throw them into a wine fermenter that is being sanitized and seal it up with the lid for 20 minutes or better.

When sanitizing wine bottles just put one or two inches in each bottle right before bottling and let stand for 20 minutes. When you are ready to fill the bottles with your wine, just dump the solution out and let drain for a minute or two--rinsing is not required.

You can safely store any remaining sulfite solution in an air-tight container for several weeks between uses. However, this is not recommended if an acid has been added to the solution as described earlier. This is because the acid will cause the solution to loose its potency at a very rapid pace.

Preserving Your Wine With Sodium Bisulfite

Sodium Bisulfite is also very helpful for preserving a wine during storage. Excessive oxygen is wine's major enemy during this time between fermentation and consumption. Too much oxygen can cause a wine to turn brown or slightly orange. And, it can also bring about a flavor in a wine similar to raisins or in more extreme cases old fashion cough syrup.

Adding Sodium Bisulfite to a wine right before bottling will help to eliminate these oxidative effects. And, will help to preserve the wine's overall character.

It does so by driving out any excessive oxygen that may be saturated into the wine. The sulfur gases from the Sodium Bisulfite displaces the oxygen and later permeates the air space in the wine bottle as well.

The recommended dose of Sodium Bisulfite is 1/16 teaspoon per gallon of wine added to the wine right before bottling.

Using Sodium Bisulfite During Rackings

Some sources recommend adding Sodium Bisulfite to your wine each time it is racked (siphoned). This is done to the wine to displace any oxygen that may have been absorbed during the siphoning process.

I would strongly recommend against adding Sodium Bisulfite during rackings. But, if you do decide to do so, you should verify with a wine hydrometer that the wine has completed its fermentation.

And even then, I would still suggest that you only add approximately half the dose that is typically recommended. Instead of using five 16th teaspoons for five gallons, reduce the dose to two or three 16th teaspoons for every 5 gallons. And, never would I recommend adding Sodium Bisulfite to a wine that is still fermenting under any circumstances.

The real problem with adding Sodium Bisulfite during rackings is you run the risk of killing the yeast in a must that has not yet completed fermentation. That is why checking the wine with a hydrometer first to verify that the fermentation is complete is essential.

- See more at:


Using Fining Agents: Techniques   Different Definitions  of win addedives    

is most effective when added at the end of fermentation, although it can be added prior to start of fermentation to help the clarification process. Double the rate of addition without exceeding the recommended maximum when adding bentonite before start of fermentation.

How to Use Bentonite

Bentonite is a fairly dense material and if it is not prepared correctly it will just collect at the bottom of your carboy and do nothing to clarify your wine. Here is the proper proceedure for hydrating and adding bentonite to your wine.

  1. Re-hydrate the bentonite powder by vigorously mixing 2 teaspoons with 1/2 cup water at 140 degrees F / 60 degrees C. The powder will have a tendency to clump together as it absorbs the warm water. Break up as many clumps as you can. This mixture is now referred to as a slurry.
  2. Store the bentonite slurry in a sanitized and airtight container for at least four hours. This allows the bentonite to become fully hydrated. The maximum amount of time you let bentonite hydrate is debated. Some sources say hydrate for at least 24 hours some say 48 hours. Other resources say don’t let it sit for more than 24 hours. I found 24 hours worked just fine.
  3. Add the slurry to your wine at a rate of 1 – 2 tablespoons per gallon of wine. Use one tablespoon per gallon for mild cloudiness and two per gallon for wines with a thicker haze.
  4. Stir the bentonite slurry in your wine vigorously though not so vigorous that you introduce oxygen into your wine. Degassing tools are perfect for this job.
  5. Re-attach your airlock and let stand for four to seven days or until clear. Most wines take about a week, however, heavy hazing can take longer to clear.The cooler your wine is kept the quicker it will clear. My W15 riesling took nearly two weeks to clear using this method.
  Pectic enzymes

Pectic enzymes are not classified as fining agents, but they greatly improve fining and filtering operations of high-pectin wines by breaking down pectins, which occur naturally in wines but are often the cause of cloudiness. Pectic enzymes are especially beneficial for press-run wines (from grapes), as well as fruit and country wines, because these tend to have much higher pectin content.
Pectic enzyme powder is added at a rate of 1–2 g/hL for white wine and 2–4 g/hL for red wine by first dissolving the powder in cool water. It is recommended to add pectic enzymes following the crushing operation (for wines produced from grapes), as a preventive additive, although they can be added during the fining operation. The juice or wine should be at a minimum temperature of 80° F (27° C) for pectic enzymes to be effective.